Growing eastern red cedar: tough, aromatic, and surprisingly easy
Answer: Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) prefers full sun and well-drained soil, tolerates drought and poor sites, and needs room from fruit trees to avoid cedar–apple rust. Plant at the root flare, water deeply the first season, and prune lightly for structure only. Evidence and details: Silvics of North America – U.S. Forest Service, USDA PLANTS – species profile, Missouri Dept. of Conservation – field guide, NC State Extension – plant profile.
If you want a tree that shrugs at wind, poor soil, and missed waterings, this is it. Eastern red cedar is a juniper with fragrant wood, dense cover for wildlife, and berries birds adore. It just needs sun, space, and a little respect for its quirks.
Background & common issues
- Range and toughness. Native across much of the eastern and central U.S., it thrives on dry slopes, old fields, and roadsides USDA PLANTS, USFS Silvics.
- Wildlife value. Dense evergreen cover and berry-like cones feed and shelter birds and small mammals Missouri Dept. of Conservation.
- Rust disease host. It’s an alternate host for cedar–apple rust; keep it well away from apples and susceptible hawthorns NC State Extension – cedar–apple rust.
“Eastern redcedar thrives in full sun on dry, rocky soils and is tolerant of drought once established.” — U.S. Forest Service Silvics of North America
Useful stat: Authoritative profiles list typical mature heights around 30–50 ft with spreads near 8–25 ft, depending on site and form NC State Extension, Missouri Dept. of Conservation.
Key terms
- Root flare: the slight widening where trunk meets roots; should sit at or just above finished grade.
- Windbreak: staggered rows of trees/shrubs planted to slow wind and trap snow or dust.
- Juniper apple rust galls: orange, gelatinous telial horns that appear on infected junipers during wet spring periods.
Planting: site, hole, and first watering
Choose the right site
- Light: full sun for dense, upright form NC State Extension.
- Soil: well-drained loam, sand, or rocky fill; avoid chronically soggy spots USFS Silvics.
- Orchard buffer: place far from apples and certain crabapples to reduce cedar–apple rust pressure NC State Extension.
Dig and plant correctly
- Dig a hole 2–3× the width of the root ball, no deeper than its height.
- Set the tree so the root flare is at grade. Backfill with native soil; break clods and firm gently.
- Water deeply to settle soil; add a light mulch ring, keeping mulch a hand’s width off the trunk.
Care: water, mulch, feeding, pruning
- Water: deep, infrequent watering the first growing season; established trees are drought-tolerant USFS Silvics.
- Mulch: maintain a clean, 2–3 in mulch ring to protect roots and reduce mower damage.
- Fertilizer: generally unnecessary on average soils; if growth is weak, soil-test before amending NC State Extension.
- Pruning: minimal. Remove dead or crossed branches. Avoid cutting back to bare wood where no green remains.
Windbreak & screening layout
- Single row screen: space trees about 10–16 ft apart for eventual closure, tighter for faster screening on small sites USFS Silvics.
- Staggered windbreak: plant 2 rows offset, rows 12–20 ft apart, trees 12–16 ft apart in-row. Mix with shrubs on windward side for better lift and filtration (general windbreak practice; confirm locally with extension).
Compatibility & uses
- Orchards: separate from apples and susceptible hawthorns to limit cedar–apple rust cycles NC State Extension.
- Wildlife: berries feed cedar waxwings and other birds; dense cover is valued winter shelter Missouri Dept. of Conservation.
- Timber/aroma: heartwood is fragrant and decay resistant; commonly used for small projects and closet linings USFS Silvics.
Pests & diseases
- Cedar–apple rust: look for orange telial horns on wet spring days; manage by distancing from apples and using resistant crabapples nearby NC State Extension.
- Bagworms: hand-pick bags in winter; light infestations can be managed early NC State Extension.
- Juniper blights: avoid overhead irrigation; prune out dead tips to clean canopy.
Tips & common mistakes
- Planting too deep. Burying the root flare invites decline.
- Watering little and often. Shallow sips train shallow roots; water deeply, then allow partial drying.
- Ignoring site spread. Give room for the mature crown listed in extension profiles NC State Extension.
- Mixing with rust-susceptible apples. Keep your evergreens and orchard separated if you can NC State Extension.
FAQ
How fast does it grow?
Commonly moderate growth under average conditions; faster on deep, well-drained soils with full sun USFS Silvics.
Will it invade pastures?
Birds spread seeds into unmanaged grasslands where it can form thickets; regular mowing or prescribed grazing keeps seedlings in check Missouri Dept. of Conservation.
Is it safe near wells or foundations?
Roots prefer well-drained topsoil and are not typically foundation breakers, but plant outside the mature spread and keep the mulch ring weed-free for inspection.
Can I shear it into a hedge?
Light shearing is fine while green growth remains. Avoid cutting back into leafless wood; junipers don’t regenerate from old wood well NC State Extension.
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