Grow mango from seed: pick the right pit, keep it warm, be patient

Seed-grown mango is the slow, romantic route. It costs nothing, teaches you the plant’s rhythms, and gives you a tough, deep-rooted tree. Just accept that flavor and timing are a surprise package.

Background & common pitfalls

• Climate reality. Mango is tropical–subtropical and not frost tolerant. Cold damage begins near the low 40s °F, with freeze injury at lower temps UF/IFAS, UH CTAHR.
• Seed genetics. Polyembryonic seeds often produce a clone among the sprouts; monoembryonic seeds yield varied offspring. Either way, fruit quality can differ from the store mango UF/IFAS, Kew POWO.
• Water & air. Overwatering in heavy soil is the top seedling killer. Mango wants free drainage and bright light UC ANR, UF/IFAS.

“Mango trees are adapted to tropical and subtropical climates and are very sensitive to cold.” — University of Florida IFAS UF/IFAS

Useful stat: Warm, moist conditions commonly produce germination in about 1–3 weeks; growth is best with day temperatures around 75–90 °F and a well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral mix near pH 6–7 UH CTAHR, UC ANR.

Key terms

• Polyembryonic seed: a seed that can sprout multiple seedlings; at least one is usually a clone of the mother tree.
• Monoembryonic seed: produces a single, genetically unique seedling.
• Root flare: the slight widening where trunk meets roots; should end up at soil surface when potting up.

How to grow mango from seed

1) Choose and clean the seed

• Use a fresh, ripe mango. After eating, scrub the husk clean.
• Open the woody husk carefully to reveal the inner seed. Discard dark, soft, or damaged seeds UF/IFAS.

2) Sprout warm and moist

• Method A, direct: Plant the seed on its side in a pot of fine, well-drained mix, about a fingertip deep.
• Method B, pre-sprout: Wrap in a lightly damp paper towel, place in a vented bag, and keep warm. Pot as soon as the root appears.
• Target steady warmth near 75–90 °F and bright light out of scorching sun for young seedlings UH CTAHR.

3) Pot up and train a strong frame

• Move to a free-draining mix in a pot with drainage holes. Keep the root flare at the surface.
• Pick a leader. If multiple shoots emerge (polyembryonic), keep the strongest and pinch others or transplant carefully to separate pots UF/IFAS.
• When the plant reaches knee-high, tip-prune to encourage branching and a low, sturdy canopy UC ANR.

4) Light, water, and nutrition

• Light: brightest location you have; outdoors, give full sun with wind shelter.
• Water: deep, infrequent watering; let the top inch dry between waterings to avoid root rot UC ANR.
• Soil pH & fertility: slightly acidic to neutral; use modest, balanced feeding during active growth UH CTAHR.

5) Outdoor planting (if your climate fits)

• Site: full sun, excellent drainage, wind protection. Avoid frost pockets.
• Hole: wide, no deeper than the root ball; set at grade, backfill with native soil, and mulch a wide ring off the trunk UF/IFAS.

6) Cold protection

• Bring containers indoors or into a greenhouse for cold snaps.
• For in-ground trees, wrap the trunk, use frost cloth, and provide temporary heat during severe events UF/IFAS.

Expectations: fruit and reality check

• Time and type. Seedlings may take multiple seasons before flowering. Fruit size, timing, and flavor can differ from the parent UF/IFAS.
• Consider: If you want predictable fruit sooner, graft a known cultivar onto your vigorous seedling later (nursery or orchardist can help) UC ANR.

Container notes

• Use a tall pot with coarse, airy mix. Up-pot gradually to avoid soggy media.
• Rotate the container for even light and prune to keep a compact canopy.

Troubleshooting

• Yellow leaves, slow growth: often waterlogged soil or cold roots; improve drainage and warmth UC ANR.
• Leaf scorch or tip burn: salt buildup or hot, dry winds; flush pot and provide windbreaks.
• Anthracnose on young panicles: improve airflow and avoid overhead irrigation; regional advice from extension may include targeted treatments UF/IFAS.

Tips & common mistakes

• Burying the trunk base. Keep the root flare visible to avoid decline.
• Heavy, wet mixes. Mango hates soggy feet. Choose chunky, draining substrates.
• Ignoring cold. A single hard frost can undo years of growth. Plan protection.

FAQ

Will my seedling match the parent fruit?

Not guaranteed. Polyembryonic seeds sometimes include a clonal sprout, but flavor and timing can still differ UF/IFAS.

Do I need to germinate in water?

No. Even moisture and warmth in a draining mix work well. A brief pre-soak can help hydrate the seed, but continuous submersion invites rot UC ANR.

What pH and fertilizer does mango prefer?

Slightly acidic to neutral is fine. Use modest, regular feeding during active growth; avoid salt-heavy products UH CTAHR.

Sources

• Mango growing in the home landscape – University of Florida IFAS (ufl.edu)
• Mango crop guide – University of Hawaiʻi CTAHR (hawaii.edu)
• Mango landscape considerations – University of California ANR (ucanr.edu)
• Mangifera indica species record – Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (science.kew.org)